How Androgens and DHT Affect Your Skin

If you struggle with jawline breakouts, oily skin, or acne that flares before your period, androgens may be playing a role.

Androgens, including testosterone and DHT (dihydrotestosterone), are the primary hormones that influence oil production in the skin. When their activity increases, breakouts often follow.

Here’s how it works.

What are androgens?

Androgens are often referred to as “male hormones,” but women produce them too just in smaller amounts.

The main androgens involved in acne are:

• Testosterone
• DHT (dihydrotestosterone)

DHT is formed when testosterone is converted by an enzyme called 5-alpha reductase. It is more potent than testosterone and has a stronger effect on sebaceous (oil) glands.

 

How androgens trigger acne

Androgens affect the skin in three major ways:

1. They increase oil production

Sebaceous glands contain androgen receptors. When androgens bind to these receptors:

• Oil production increases
• Sebaceous glands enlarge
• Pores become more prone to congestion

Excess oil mixed with dead skin cells creates the ideal environment for breakouts.

 

2. DHT is especially potent

DHT binds more strongly to androgen receptors than testosterone.

Higher local DHT activity in the skin can:

• Overstimulate oil glands
• Increase the likelihood of clogged pores
• Contribute to deeper, cystic acne

Even if blood testosterone levels are normal, increased conversion to DHT in the skin can amplify acne.

 

3. Androgens influence inflammation

Acne isn’t just about oil, it’s also inflammatory.

Androgen activity can:

• Influence immune signaling
• Increase inflammatory mediators
• Worsen redness and swelling

This is why hormonal acne is often deeper and more painful than typical congestion-based acne.

 

Why acne flares before your period

You may not experience a major spike in testosterone before your period, but oestrogen drops in the late luteal phase.

Oestrogen helps buffer oil production.

When oestrogen declines:

• Androgen influence becomes stronger
• Oil production increases
• Breakouts are more likely

This is known as relative androgen dominance and it’s one of the main drivers of premenstrual acne.

 

Why some people are more androgen-sensitive

Not everyone with normal testosterone levels gets acne.

That’s because acne isn’t just about hormone levels — it’s also about:

• 5-alpha reductase activity
• Androgen receptor sensitivity
• Local DHT production in the skin

Two people can have the same hormone levels, but very different skin responses.

 

Signs your breakouts are androgen-driven

You may be dealing with androgen-related breakouts if you experience:

• Jawline or chin breakouts
• Oily skin
• Deep, cystic lesions
• Breakouts that worsen before your period
• Acne after stopping birth control

These patterns often point to hormone-driven skin rather than surface-level congestion.

 

Supporting balanced androgen activity

If androgens are contributing to breakouts, it may help to support:

• Healthy 5-alpha reductase activity
• Balanced DHT conversion
• Inflammatory regulation
• Hormonal equilibrium

Because when androgen influence increases, skin responds.

 

The bottom line

Androgens, especially DHT, are key regulators of oil production in the skin.

When their activity is amplified, whether through hormonal shifts, enzyme activity, or receptor sensitivity, breakouts become more likely.

Hormonal breakouts aren’t random.

They are often a reflection of how your skin responds to androgen signaling.